“When I joined Bvlgari, my vision was to create a pattern that embodied the essence of the brand—a signature identity that would be timeless and universally resonant. The ‘Calla’ was born from this vision, inspired by the intricate mosaics of the Terme di Caracalla. This ancient Roman masterpiece became the foundation for Bvlgari’s iconic ‘Divas’ Dream’ collection, and it was the cornerstone of my first collection for the Maison. The sensuous curve of the fan motif symbolises femininity, strength, and a connection to diverse cultures and meanings. From the gingko leaf to the calla lily, the ‘Calla’ motif is a journey, and as they say, ‘all roads lead to Bvlgari.'”
— Mary Katrantzou, Bvlgari Creative Director of Leather Goods and Accessories
For her inaugural collection at Bvlgari, Mary Katrantzou delves into the rich history of Rome, the eternal city that serves as both the home and the heartbeat of Bvlgari. Drawing inspiration from the ancient Terme di Caracalla, Katrantzou introduces the ‘Calla’ motif—a symbol deeply rooted in Roman heritage and now reimagined through her visionary lens.
The Terme di Caracalla, constructed in the third century AD, were once heralded as one of Rome’s seven wonders. These grand baths, named after the emperor who commissioned them, were more than just a place for relaxation; they were hubs of social and cultural life, embodying the spirit of ancient Rome. The baths’ floors, adorned with fan-shaped polychrome mosaics in jewel-toned marble tesserae—pearl white, amethyst, emerald, and gold—have been meticulously restored, thanks in part to Bvlgari’s patronage. These mosaics, first revealed in their full glory in 2015 and 2016, inspired the feminine fan shape that has become synonymous with Bvlgari’s Divas’ Dream collection. This motif, rich in symbolism, resonates across cultures, echoing the strength of the gingko leaf and the sculptural elegance of the calla lily—both emblems of beauty, purity, and resilience.
In her debut Leather Goods and Accessories collection, Katrantzou breathes new life into the ‘Calla’ motif, infusing it with modern sophistication and timeless appeal. The motif is exquisitely rendered through intricate matelassé and pavé crystal treatments on the iconic ‘Serpenti Forever’ silhouettes. A standout piece is the new ‘Serpenti Sugarloaf’ shoulder bag, crafted from padded nappa leather. Its design draws inspiration from Bvlgari’s signature cabochon cut, with its high-domed shape adding a luxurious, tactile dimension to the collection. The intricate lines of the matelassé are precision-engineered and expertly crafted by Bvlgari’s artisans at the Maison’s historic leather goods Atelier in Florence.
Another highlight of Katrantzou’s debut is the ‘Serpentine Duo’ handbag—a new tote with a trapeze shape reminiscent of faceted gemstones. The bag’s forged metal handle, adorned with a double Serpenti head on each side, is a direct homage to Bvlgari’s rich legacy. This sinuous, finely engraved detail reflects the Maison’s unparalleled jewellery craftsmanship, seamlessly translated into the realm of leather goods. The ‘Serpentine Duo’ comes in two versions: a leather option for everyday use and an evening version encrusted with crystals, each meticulously placed by hand for a flawless finish.
Completing the collection is the ‘Ginkgo’ clutch, a striking interpretation of the ‘Calla’ pattern. This piece distills the motif into a pure, singular form, championing its beauty as a standalone silhouette. Suspended from a leather bracelet, the ‘Ginkgo’ clutch is a testament to the artistry that unites jewellery-making and leathercraft. Executed in fine nappa leather and moulded metal, it embodies the harmonious blend of tradition and innovation that defines Bvlgari.
Throughout this debut collection, Mary Katrantzou has crafted pieces that resonate deeply with Bvlgari’s distinctive identity. Each creation is a celebration of the Maison’s heritage as a Roman High Jeweller, combining the handmade artisanship and gem-like preciousness for which Bvlgari is renowned.
Katrantzou’s designs seamlessly blend ancient inspiration with contemporary elegance, creating a collection that is both timeless and unmistakably Bvlgari.
